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Here we go

Once Upon a Time Wall is in bookstores from October 22, 2009
















The book is divided into two parts. The first German-Polish, the second Czech-Slovak-Hungarian border. Both are accurate timing and stages of the two trips I have made "behind the Iron Curtain" in September and November 2008. They are written, as it were, "live". Below is a list of places visited, with its links to the content developed in this blog. The list also corresponds to the order of chapters in the volume.

PART 1

Berlin
Eisenhuttenstadt
Leipzig

Gdansk Szczecin
between Gdansk and Warsaw Warsaw


PART 2

Bratislava
Wolfsthal
Komarno
between Bratislava and Prague Prague

Sopron / Budapest Fertőrákos

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The God of Money



We all grew up believing in our God, a God with the capital. The God of Money. Just a distraction to be surrounded by an artificial heat that makes us feel free.
There is a problem in our society. We believe that excellence is the value for the money. This is a big problem because this wrong vision leads us to seek knowledge rather than money.
I know how to make bread do not know many of you. Those who do not know can do it anyway thanks to the money. But money is not the bread. Money is only a medium of exchange. If the last man to die to make bread, there would note in the world able to procure a loaf.
We must be careful not to confuse the value for money.
you, the value. Knowledge is the value. Money is only a medium of exchange.

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Memento

last stop on this trip: the Memento Park, just outside Budapest, the long road to the lake Balaton. It is an air museum lying open where the statues were standing at the time of socialism in the city. After 89 brought them all (or almost) here. Right choice. Why destroy them would mean to erase with a sponge the history of the capital and make an abrupt, in Stalinist style. Orsolya Madary, a Memento of the communications manager made me take a guided tour, explaining a bit 'of juicy anecdotes about the giant marble of the park. That each type, the budapestini out, give a nickname. An ironic nickname, which sbeffeggiave the works of master sculptors communists. From page 265 to page 268 - the last three - of Once Upon a Time Wall . Below, some shots of the dinosaurs Memento. Top left, Instead, Stalin's boots. A bigwig of the Hungarian Communist monumentalistic (in the book you will find something also about the shoes, mustache).

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Imre Nagy

The gentleman on the bridge, hat and eye to the Hungarian Parliament, and Imre Nagy. Indeed, Imre Nagy. The Hungarians, like the Chinese, in fact pronounce the last name then first name. Fu, Nagy, the man who paid more than anyone else - was tried and hanged farcical - Magyar insubordination against Moscow in 1956. Year, this, the Hungarian uprising, crushed by the Red Army.
More than half a century has passed since those events, but the memory of the Hungarians is deeply linked to that year's terrible. Commemorated with due trappings and with particular devotion. Even by the heirs of the communists (now waving the banner of the Socialist Party).
The point is that the revolution of '56 is one of the hallmarks of 'Hungarian . But things went up to 89 in another way. Janos Kadar, the man who replaced Nagy after the revolution (first supported him, betrayed him), mounds in fact the debate on insurrection and imposed absolute silence on the subject, impersonating the '56 as a rebellion staged and orchestrated by the forces of reaction.
is no longer the case. For a long time - 89 - the '56 is perceived for what it was: a patriotic revolution of the people. In the book he speaks. We talk about how. He talks a lot.
Here, in order to grasp the theme, find a couple of interviews I have done. As usual for Europe. The first is the student Janos Rainer, the second journalist to Janos Betlen .

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Picnic

A few kilometers from Sopron's Fertőrákos, a village of three houses located on the last stretch of Magyar Puszta. From there, across the border There is Austria. In August 1989, right here, along the border between East and West ridge at the time, some citizens of the GDR, on holiday in Hungary, crossed the limes and fled to Austria, finally managing to leave their socialist fatherland, in short, to leave the cage.
This happened during the famous Pan-European Picnic, organized by Hungarian and Austrian in order to celebrate the upcoming opening of borders and an end to the militarization of borders, typical of the Cold War. The picnic is considered one of the events of 89 and one of the pivotal moments that sanctioned the end of the Soviet bloc and the collapse of the Berlin Wall. How and why things went the picnic was so important to see the poteve here, here and finally here . Below, however, found some of my photos taken at the point where the East Germans crossed the border.

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Dentists Magyar

In Sopron, immediately after the Hungarian border. Particularly eye-catching dozens of signs, posters, signs and license plates that advertise dental offices.
E 'that Hungarian dentists are renowned. Are cheap, they work just fine, can become advertising on the web. More and more people from the western quadrant of Europe, thus, arrive at the Magyar land and indigenous people in the care of dentists. Save a lot of money, leaving the clinics with dentures are too shiny and a little 'holiday in Hungary. Tourism caries. Europe united by the molars.

Do not believe us? Read the story of this lady of Montecchio, near Reggio Emilia, traveled to Hungary - and just in Sopron - the place to get back to Denton. He reported some time ago, the Corriere della Sera .

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To be printed

finished editing, the finished controediting, over the counter controediting, Once Upon a Time Wall heads towards the barn of the printer. From there, rehearsing for the publisher, then go in bookstores October 21. Finally, I hope, on your shelves, your bedside, on your shelves.

Below is the list of the fourteen chapters, divided into two parts

Germany and Poland (September 2008)
Berlin - Eisenhuttenstadt - Leipzig - Szczecin - Gdansk - In Gdansk and Warsaw - Warsaw

Slovakia, Czech Republic and Hungary (November 2008)
Bratislava - Wolfsthal - Komarno - between Bratislava and Prague - Prague - Sopron / Fertőrákos - Budapest

The route (google maps)

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Intoxicated

At the Museum of Communism in Prague, actually a bit 'trivial and superficial, however, I discovered an interesting story related to pollution. 89 It seems that today the life expectancy of the Czech Republic has increased by five years, thanks to the disposal of many toxic substances that the Communists and store it underground Bohemian and Moravian which polluted the air in the name of industrial progress and science. The czech Republic, in some of its regions, remains despite disinfection produced over the last two decades, a trash can outside. Here, for example, you can read an article in the Economist devoted to them.

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Characters

The monk Jan Palach , the playwright-president Vaclav Havel , the disreputable Communist leader Gustav Husak , the mystic rabbi Low , the scholar Miland Kundera, the current president Vaclav Klaus , the head of the Prague Spring of Alexander Dubcek and eccentric American musician Frank Zappa . All people with whom I had to do in the bohemian section of the book.

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But it is magic?

Yes, it is called each magic. Prague. The city of Kafka, of Jewish alchemists, the bridges over the Vltava, the Gothic buildings, fantastic architecture, of Arcane St. Vitus Cathedral (pictured at left is a detail) and the castle, Rabbi Low, the ghetto and the Golem, the clay pupazzone. I walk the streets and bohemian atmosphere is mystic, conjuring up, thanks to a valuable guide - Prague magical, beautiful book of Angelo Maria Ripellino - the splendors and the vagaries of the capital czech. But chatting with my friend Marketa Zidkova open my eyes to another reality. That of a city besieged by tourism, blinded by western myths, approved certain models of development. What magic, today, much less than in the past. Where the desire of the West broke out after 89, legitimate and sacred - Marketa says - has become Western also indigestion. But, of course, a little 'magic of this city gives off again. I still allow myself sick.

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Six articles describe a turning

On Europe, Angelo and myself tell Paolozi in six articles, three of Germany, one Polish, one Hungarian and one Czech, "the long-'89." From the construction the collapse of the Wall. Check it out. Below is the link to the section.

1989-2009
So Europe has changed

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Sudeten

on the road to Prague. Through the town of Jihlava . Iglau, a time when the ethnic majority of the place was German. When Hitler claimed the Sudetenland to the Third Reich (map left), the mountain belt to the Czech-German border in order to unify the Germanic nation. This was won, thanks to the weakness of the European powers, who in order to save the peace granted the Fuhrer much. Too. By sacrificing Czechoslovakia. The year was 1938. But peace did not last long. The year After the Nazis invaded Poland and occupied in short all the East, by ethnic cleansing.
After the end of the war, ethnic cleansing has run upside down. Czechoslovakia, came back to life, expelled all German citizens, guilty, collectively, they were Nazis or colluded with the regime. From Bohemia and Moravia, from all over the East in general, ten million Germans were expelled and wandering, among untold misery and untold down - because the history is written by the winners, not losers - on the border. After the collapse of the Wall
the issue of expulsion of the Germans , most of which was repairing in the DDR, has been re-examined. With construct. Prague and Berlin each acknowledged their responsibilities, making quell'ecologia of memory from other places, in Central and Eastern Europe, struggling to carburetor. One of the protagonists of the Czech-German reconciliation was Vaclav Havel. You'll see it in the book.

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Brothels

From Bratislava to Prague, through the Moravian countryside. Passing Znojmo, e frontier between Austria and czech Republic. A sort of red-light town, full of small hotels by the hour, motel a bit 'dirty, casinos, strip clubs, brothels and private clubs. In practice, deregulation prostitution. A job, this, that in the czech Republic and has 25 thousand affiliates many customers from regions bordering Germany and Austria. A Znojmo, however, the most amazing thing is that next to this big open-air brothel also includes a well equipped amusement park for children, the Excalibur (see photo). The boys and moths. A few meters away. A bit 'absurd.

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Nobody, however, forget that other link! The first few times

Today the whole facebook share this link to remember the dead soldiers in Kabul.
But no one forget to share this other link , to remember that deaths caused by our war are hundreds of thousands. Sooner or later it will end this damn oil.

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-33

Official: Once Upon a Time Wall will be in bookstores October 21. Between 33 days exactly. Begin, then, the countdown.

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Ungaro

third sortie of Slovakia Komarno. Although it already seems to be in Hungary. I go there because the city is the capital of the Hungarians in Slovakia, which represent 10% of the total population live and generally not too well their minority status. During the rule of the autocrat Vladimir Meciar were heavily discriminated against and accused of being troublemakers in the pay of the government in Budapest. Then, with the advent to power of the Christian Democratic Dzurinda, their situation improved. The Magyar Coalition, the party of the Hungarians, he joined the government, helped to reform. In return, the Hungarians were recognized cultural rights, civil and social rights. In other words, the dignity that Meciar was obtained gl'aveva not ever want to tune. A
Komarno The atmosphere is Hungarian. Statues of Hungarian heroes (like the one above left), tricolor flags, Hungarians always, plaques and written in Hungarian language or bilingual. Goulash, of course. You breathe a certain stillness. Between Hungarians and Slovaks of place relations are cordial and relaxed. The latter, almost all are fluent in the language Magyar. In short, the political conflicts of Bratislava, where the grim and unsavory populist faction leader Jan Slota - returned to govern after the election victory of the socialist Robert Fico in 2006 and the formation of an abnormal Executive red-brown ( here for bio Slota, here analysis on the Slovak-Hungarian relations - spitting venom on a daily Magyar minority, just do not come here. okay. Below, from top to bottom: bilingual plaque, a statue dedicated to a historical Hungarian workers to work in Piazza Europa.